Jamie Schneider is the Beauty Editor at mindbodygreen. She has a B.A. in Organizational Studies and English from the University of Michigan, and her work has appeared in Coveteur, The Chill Times, and Wyld Skincare.
Image by FluxFactory / iStock
November 9, 2023
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I have stubborn dark circles for myriad reasons: Genetically, I have super-thin skin underneath my eyes, which makes the underlying blood vessels more apparent (I’ve looked like I worked a nine-to-five since I was, uh, five); I also rub my eyes quite a bit from allergies, which exacerbates under-eye shadows. And, fine, sometimes I like to stay up late, eat salty foods, and drink sugary cocktails. That’s just life!
I also recently discovered I have deep-set eyes, which means the natural shape of my eye socket is more prone to dark circles. Fun!
Not to fret, my fellow deep-set friends: I sent some burning questions over to trusted experts who shared how to apply concealer on deep-set eyes. Ready for your anatomy lesson?
What are deep-set eyes?
To put it simply, deep-set eyes are set further back in the eye socket (hence, the name). The sunken appearance typically makes the brow bone more prominent and the eyes larger.
Because the eyes are set deeper in the skull, they can also create a strong natural shadow underneath—which often makes dark circles more apparent.
“Deep-set eyes can have a crease underneath them that looks kind of like a shadow stripe, but it’s just in the inner corner where the orbital bone recesses,” explains makeup artist Jenny Patinkin. “If your crease is very pronounced, almost like it’s tucked back into your orbital area, then you have deep-set eyes.”
As for what causes this appearance, we can chalk it all up to genetics. “Deep set eyes are simply another eye shape (i.e., hooded eyes, almond eyes, etc.),” says celebrity makeup artist Misha Shahzada. However, lifestyle factors—like lack of sleep, dehydration, and natural aging—can make the shape more pronounced. And as you lose bone and fat around the orbital bone with age, the eyes can appear even more sunken.
Generally, though, you can consider deep-set eyes another beautifully unique eye shape. And just like with the rest of the eye shapes, you can rely on strategic tips to enhance your own set of orbs. Like, say, a seamless concealer application: If you have deep-set eyes, take note of these expert tips below.
How to apply concealer on deep-set eyes
It may take a minute to master, but trust me when I say learning about your deep set eyes is half the battle. Now, for the makeup tutorial:
An impeccable makeup look always starts with skin care. Especially when you’re dealing with the delicate under-eye area, you’ll want to make sure the area remains aptly hydrated and dewy.
“I always stress the importance of applying eye cream to help prep the skin for makeup—especially around the eyes where product tend to sink into the crevices most,” says Shahzada. Bonus points if your eye cream contains brightening actives (like vitamin C, caffeine, or turmeric) to neutralize dark circles long-term. We included one favorite below, or you can shop more of them here.
For an extra brightening effect, primer also comes in handy. Not only does a stellar primer help your makeup last throughout the day (nary a flake in sight) but they can also add a touch more radiance without piling on tons of product, which only makes the makeup look cakey.
Help your concealer work smarter, not harder, by starting with a color corrector. These are great if you’re looking to balance discoloration, as certain complementary hues can help cancel out under-eye shadows—purple neutralizes sallowness, an orangey peach can warm up cool shadows, and the list goes on.
“Color correcting will help ensure that the concealer blends in better and stays put,” says Shahzada. It also results in a much more natural-looking finish, as opposed to layering on a much lighter concealer that causes a stark contrast.
As for which corrector to choose? “Since most dark circles are blue or purple, you can color correct using a range from light peach to a red orange, depending on your skin tone,” Shahzada explains. “The darker your skin tone, the darker your color corrector.”
Time for the main event! Find a creamy concealer that has a precise applicator you can dot on specific shadows. “Because of the shape and natural shadow, a ton of concealer won’t completely cover,” says makeup artist Carly Giglio. Because deep-set eyes typically have a shadow stripe at the inner corner, it helps to just apply product there rather than saturating the entire under-eye area.
You’ll also want to choose a concealer that’s no more than one shade lighter than your natural skin tone. “It’s tempting to use a very light concealer to brighten up that shadow, but that’s kind of like wearing a black bra under a white T-shirt,” says Patinkin. Meaning, you might end up drawing more attention to your dark circles.
As for blending, she recommends using a small (emphasis on small) concealer brush to cover that shadow stripe. “Using a large concealer brush can move the product outside of that shadow zone, which doesn’t actually do too much to make it look brighter or smoother,” she shares.
After blending, feel free to press your fingertips lightly into the area to warm up the skin. “This will help the concealer meld onto the skin and also remove excess product,” Giglio adds.
The takeaway
If you’ve recently discovered you have deep-set eyes, well, same. Just know that eyes come in all different shapes and sizes, and they’re all equally stunning—deep-set eyes included! That said, folks with this eye shape do tend to complain more of dark circles (self very much included), so you might benefit from these expert concealing tips.
