Should You Ever Apply Serum After Your Moisturizer? Only In *This* Instance

December 11, 2022

In the world of skin care, there’s a plethora of options to choose from for every single step. While picking the right product for your skin type is important, so is the order in which you apply it. This is especially true when it comes to active serums and creamy moisturizers. 

So we’re here to answer the common inquiry: Which comes first, serum or moisturizer? Plus, we’ll dive into why each step is so essential and the best ingredients to look for. Let’s get into it. 

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The short answer? Serums go first, no doubt about it. “It’s best to layer lighter products like serums before heavier products like moisturizers,” board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D. tells mbg. 

This is because moisturizers contain some occlusive ingredients, which help them trap moisture in the skin but prevent other ingredients from penetrating. So if you layer on a serum over your face cream, the likelihood of your skin absorbing that product and thus reaping all of the benefits is slim. 

However, there is one caveat here: “If you want to decrease the potency of a serum—like if it contains potentially irritating ingredients like retinol or salicylic acid, then applying a moisturizer first could help make the serum less potent and less irritating,” King notes. 

This technique is often referred to as the “retinol sandwich,” where you layer moisturizer under and over your retinol to buffer the effect. But should you do this with other serum ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C? No, unless you think these serums might trigger a negative reaction from the skin (which is pretty unlikely for most people).

In fact, the deeper these ingredients can penetrate, the better. So to sum it all up: Potentially irritating serums can be buffered by using a moisturizer before and after, but otherwise, all serums should be applied first. 

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An evening cleanse is non-negotiable. If you’re taking off makeup or sunscreen at the end of the day, you may even opt for a double cleanse. This means taking an oil-based cleanser to dry skin, adding a bit of water to your hands and massaging further into the skin, rinsing that cleanser off, and following up with a gentle water-based cleanser. 

This is always the first step, even if it’s just a splash of water in the morning. A clean canvas is necessary for all that follows.

2.

Toner or essence (optional).

Some like to use a toner post-cleanse, whether it be an astringent product or a hydrating essence—here’s a deeper explanation of what toners are and the benefits they provide. 

Many toners also include pre- and post-biotics, which help feed your skin microbiome. Plus, some essences add a boost of hydration. That being said, many of the ingredients found in this second step can be found in serums as well. 

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3.

Serum (optional but encouraged). 

Remember: Serums should hit the skin before your moisturizer. If you’re using a retinol serum or a chemical exfoliant, be sure to apply it to your skin once your toner has dried down a bit. When applied to wet skin, products tend to absorb deeper into the pores—which you don’t want for those potentially irritating actives. 

On the flip side, if you’re using a hyaluronic acid serum, then you should definitely apply it to damp skin. See, hyaluronic acid, along with aloe vera and glycerin, is categorized as a humectant. Meaning, it pulls water into the skin, so you want to give it the water it need to do its job properly.  

You can also layer serums, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C for a brightening, plumping duo. However, you should never mix retinol with vitamin C or chemical exfoliants, as most retinol formulas are not designed to interact with other actives. (More on serums 101 below.) 

Next up, we have moisturizer. If you have oily skin, you might prefer a light-weight, water-based moisturizer. Those with drier skin types may prefer something that resembles more of a cream and less of a gel—it all boils down to skin type and personal preference. 

This step is definitely a must, both day and night. Later, we’ll dive a bit deeper into why you should use these products on a daily basis and how to pick the best one for your skin.

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5.

Eye cream (optional). 

Eye cream is technically optional, but if you’re looking to brighten dark circles, ease fine lines, or reduce under-eye puffiness, then it’s basically essential. See, these little products contain actives specifically formulated for the thin, delicate skin under the eyes. 

If you were to use a strong retinol or vitamin C serum that’s formulated for the face in this area, you run the risk of irritation (which can lead to more dark circles and wrinkles, we must note).

Here’s a list of our top picks for each concern  if you’re ready to shop. 

6.

Oils (optional, p.m. only). 

During your evening routine, using oils as a final layer can help lock in moisture. If you have oily skin, you may not need this step, but those with dry skin will love it. 

This method is often called “natural slugging,” as you’re applying an occlusive layer over the rest of your skin care, but using a natural, botanically-derived oil rather than petrolatum jelly. 

If you’re prone to breakouts, be sure to pick an oil that’s noncomedogenic, like jojoba, rosehip, or grapeseed oil. 

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8.

Makeup (optional). 

Now, what is a serum, really? Well, it’s not so black and white: Serums may include a wide variety of ingredients, from antioxidants to hydrators to retinol, and others may even cocktail a few different players. 

But on a technical level, “Serums have higher percentages of active ingredients in a light formulation that absorbs quickly and should be followed with a moisturizer,” King explains. Serums are viewed as the “treatment” step in your skin care routine. They’re probably your most potent product—and therefore are often the most expensive.

While the standard skin care routine from a few years back called for actives in every single step (remember that chemical exfoliant craze?), the modern-day approach is totally different. “Instead, use really active ingredients placed within a really hydrating and barrier-supporting routine, whether it’s a professional treatment or your home care,” professional esthetician Sofie Pavitt once told mbg. 

But which ingredients you should choose ultimately depends on your skin type, goals, and what other products you’re using in your routine. As a cardinal rule: Don’t mix exfoliants with vitamin C or retinol—and be sure to use the potentially irritating ingredients on dry skin, or sandwich them if your skin is extra sensitive. 

Moisturizer is your hydrating step, and it’s one of the most important parts to any skin care routine. “Moisturizer should have humectants, emollients, and occlusives and usually lower percentages of active ingredients,” King explains. 

It’s important to have each of these in your product to ensure all-around hydration. As stated above, humectants help pull in water, while emollients nourish and soften the skin, all to have occlusives lock it all in—you can read more about the different types of hydrators here. 

This combination helps to maintain a healthy skin barrier—and remember, skin care is a tool that helps you tend to your largest organ, not just work on aesthetics. So put some time and effort into picking a product that’s best for you (and one that you’ll want to use every day). Here are a few tried-and-true picks to get you started. 

If you’re interested in a basic, no-frills skin care routine, you definitely don’t need a serum to get by. However, if you’re looking for greater improvements, whether you want to brighten your complexion, ease fine lines and wrinkles, or treat acne, then you’ll likely benefit from a serum. 

And while some serums come with a high price, there are definitely great affordable options out there, too. If you’re on a budget, invest in complex serums like retinol and vitamin C, and snag more affordable hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and other single-ingredient serums. 

This is because vitamin C and retinol are two ingredients that are notoriously unstable, so the formulation takes a bit more T.L.C., while simple serums are, well, simple. To ease your search, here are a few of our favorite serums by ingredient category: 

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