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October 13, 2021 — 14:28 PM
We’ve said it before, but we’re always game for a friendly reminder: Makeup has no rules. It’s all about creating what makes you feel the most beautiful, but that being said, it is fun to amp up your unique features—like perhaps accentuating your eye color or eye shape.
Any lid structure can achieve any makeup look, of course, but experts do call on specific techniques to help enhance the various outlines, be it almond, hooded, monolid, or (in this case) downturned eyes. If you have a downturned eye shape, feel free to keep these tricks in your back pocket.
As the name suggests, downturned eyes tend to slope downward at the outer corners. It’s not always so obvious, though, so here’s a helpful tip: Draw a straight, horizontal line across your eyes (either on a mirror or on a close-up photo). If the outer corners of your eyes tilt below the line, you likely have a downturned eye shape.
Makeup tips to accentuate the eye shape.
Not all downturned eyes have the same exact structure, so it’s always helpful to play around with what works for you (go ahead and go wild!). But think of these makeup artist tips as a starting off point for your face beat.
1. Apply shadow on the orbital bone.
“The key to applying shadow on downturned eyes is to focus on the orbital bone rather than the lash line,” says makeup artist Jenny Patinkin. Keep your gaze straight-on in the mirror and sweep on a matte shade just above the orbital bone, blending up towards the outer corner of the eyebrow. “This will create the illusion of lift,” she says.
2. Use concealer for lift.
“If you want to create the illusion of a more uplifted eye shape, use a touch of a lighter shade of concealer on the outer corner of your bottom lash line (look for the area where a shadow may naturally occur due to the hooded shape of a downturned eye),” says makeup artist Alexandra Compton, product development manager at Credo. “This will instantly brighten and lift the outer corner of the eye.”
A bold cat-eye can help elongate any eye shape—but for downturned eyes, two routes take you there.
Compton suggests making the liner wing more straight and thick. “When you look down, you should have a straight line, not a curved hook shape,” she says. This squares off the eye, which makes it appear more even. For even more lift, she recommends applying a dark colored liner in your outer lower waterline.
Or, you can flick the wing upwards towards your brow (like a traditional cat-eye), but draw your line just before the corners start to slant downwards, rather than at the very end of your eye. “Then to amp it up, use a concealer one to two shades lighter than your skin, go right next to the liner, and it will lift it even more,” makeup artist Criss Scortezzsays in a quick TikTok demonstration.
4. Embrace the downward slope.
If a cat-eye is not your jam, you can always use liner to accentuate the natural downward curve of your eye shape (a K-beauty trick dubbed “puppy eyeliner”). Simply trace the lash line with your liquid liner, gliding the pigment down towards your bottom lash line instead of flicking upwards towards the brow.
5. Create a soft, smokey eye.
For a full-on, capital-L Look, follow Compton’s lead: “[Apply] a darker eyeshadow shade all over the lid and into the crease for a soft, smokey look,” she explains. “Blend with a fluffy brush to soften any harsh edges.”
Next, trace the same color below your lower lash line (which makes the eyes appear bigger and taller) and connect the outer edge with the color at your top lash line. “Add some dimension by applying a light shimmery shade to the inner corner of your lid,” continues Compton. And finally: “Tightline your top and bottom lash line with a brown or black liner (for some fun, try a pretty pop of color with purple, blue or burgundy liner).”
“Curl your lashes before applying mascara for mega doe eyes,” Compton once told us about how to flatter any eye shape. It’s a universal tip, of course, but especially for downturned eyes, as those lashes tend to droop without some curl. Check out our favorite eyelash curlers here, which includes a few precise tools to grab more stubborn lashes at the outer corners.
7. Accentuate lashes at the outer corners.
After curling, send a few extra coats of mascara on the outer corners for an eye-opening effect. “A cluster of false lashes at the outer corner of the lash line can give a beautiful illusion of lift,” Patinkin notes.
If falsies aren’t your thing, you can also create faux lashes with liquid liner—a retro hack that looks divine on downturned eyes. “I like to press the tip of the liquid liner into the base of the lash root and use a light flicking motion to create a ‘lash,’” Compton once told mbg. Focus on the outer lash line (top and bottom), and stick to four to five flicks.
If you have downturned eyes, that means your eyes tilt downwards at the outer corners. There are myriad ways to accentuate the stunning shape, whether you want to create more lift or enhance the slant—all make for a striking eye look.
