A Derm’s 3 Step Routine To Shrinking The Appearance Of Pores

June 13, 2023

Can your pores actually shrink? Well, not exactly. See, your pores don’t truly change in size, but the buildup within each pore can make it appear larger on the surface. 

So the best way to actually “minimize” pores is to work on cleaning them out, so there’s no gunk to exacerbate their appearance. To come, three products a dermatologist uses to do just that.

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1.

Use BHAs in the morning

“I start with a BHA exfoliant,” says board-certified dermatologist Scott Walter, MD, FAAD, in a recent TikTok video. BHA is short for beta-hydroxy acid, a type of exfoliant that can dive deeper into the pores than the gentler alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) to clean up the gunk. 

He opts for the COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid and uses it every morning, which also includes niacinamide to help regulate oil production and prevent pore buildup in the future. 

However, sensitive skin types may experience irritation when using BHAs daily, so feel free to space it out if your skin begins to look inflamed, red, dry, or it starts to itch. 

Using BHAs, like salicylic acid, in the morning will ensure that you never mix it with retinol in the evenings, but it will make you more prone to sun damage and sunburn, so always apply SPF afterward. 

2.

Use retinol 3 times a week

“Then at night at least three times per week I use a retinoid, like over-the-counter adapalene or prescription-strength tretinoin,” Walter notes. 

This cadence can work for many people, but similar to the step above, it may be sensitizing for some skin types. Just stick to a cadence that supports your goals and skin barrier.

In addition, anyone just starting to use retinol should ease into it or apply it between layers of moisturizer to buffer the impact while your skin adjusts—this will help avoid retinol-induced, irritation, peeling, etc. 

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3.

Try a weekly clay mask

“Then once a week I add a clay mask, which acts like a magnet for all the dirt, oil, and debris in the pores to help them look smaller,” he says while applying the PCA Skin Detoxifying Mask.

Most people can tolerate this step once a week, unless your skin is super dry or sensitive. In that case, try adding this step to your bi-weekly routine.

Regardless, some clay masks are more drying than others. If your skin doesn’t usually respond well to simple clays, consider enhancing your formula with a bit of noncomedogenic oil, like jojoba oil, grapeseed oil, rosehip seed oil, etc., to soften the blow. 

PSA

These ingredients are all considered “active” steps in your skin care routine and should be followed by moisturizer in the evening and sunscreen in the morning to tend to your skin barrier.

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