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November 18, 2021 — 11:02 AM
There’s a lot to unpack when it comes to uneven skin texture: It’s a super common complaint, as it’s actually not one issue but a class of many—from rough patches to discoloration to flaking and peeling to bumps. And today, we’re going to dive into that last point.
See, bumpy skin can happen for a load of reasons, and identifying the types of bumps you have is a downright crucial step—treat a cluster of bumps the wrong way, and you may face even more mounds than before.
So! Before you slather on any ol’ exfoliator, we highly recommend you I.D. your bumps below. Here’s how to get rid of each type for a soft and smooth canvas.
What do your bumps look like: Are they flesh-toned, living under the skin? Or are they inflamed and rash-like? Take stock of your skin—there’s a pretty good chance you identify with one of these conditions below:
Essentially, subclinical acne is a fancier word for congested skin—think flesh-colored bumps that never seem to come to a head. “They are nonpainful and usually do not lead to scarring or skin discoloration,” says Ife Rodney, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Eternal Dermatology about the condition, although they can progress into pimples or pustules if they are left untreated and become inflamed.
This type of acne can crop up anywhere you have pores, but Rodney says they tend to appear on the forehead, chin, and nose (where people tend to accrue the most oil), as well as the chest, back, or shoulders.
If you have stubborn, tiny white or yellow bumps on the surface of the skin, you may be dealing with milia. These white spots never get inflamed, red, or swollen because you’re not actually dealing with a type of acne—milia are cysts filled with keratin that get trapped beneath the surface of the skin. It’s a pretty common condition, typically found on the face above the cheekbones and under the eyes. (Read more about it here.)
Rosacea is an inflammatory skin condition that can result in small bumps on the face (as well as swelling, overall textural changes, and intense flushing for some skin tones). It typically remains in the middle of the face—so if your bumps are concentrated on the cheeks, nose, and forehead, you very well may be dealing with rosacea.
Contact dermatitis is essentially an allergic reaction from interacting with triggering ingredients—either topicals (like essential oils, fragrance, and so on) or physical rubbing from harsh fabrics (hello, masks). Specific triggers differ for everyone, but it usually results in an inflamed, bumpy rash. It’s temporary, and it can happen anywhere.
“Keratosis pilaris is a buildup of keratin and dead skin cells within the hair follicles, causing them to bulge, giving them the bumpy texture, and often causing them to get irritated and inflamed,” physician and founder of Osmia Organics Sarah Villafranco, M.D., says of the condition.
As you can probably tell, “bumpy skin” has a slew of potential causes, and you can’t expect to tend to them all the exact same way. For example, you wouldn’t treat acne or KP the same way you would care for a rosacea flare-up. The first step is to identify which kind of bumps you’re dealing with, then you can go ahead and proceed with the below.
Exfoliate: Derms are partial to BHAs, like salicylic acid, as the ingredient is oil-soluble and can penetrate deep into the hair follicles. “It exfoliates the surface of the skin and penetrates into pores to remove oil. This helps to prevent pores from becoming clogged and can help remove clogs that have already formed,” says board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D. Feel free to use a cleanser, mask, or leave-on treatment with the BHA—just be mindful not to overexfoliate.
Use retinol: “Topical retinoids have a comedolytic effect, meaning that they help to prevent and treat clogged pores,” King explains. “This is because they increase the turnover of skin cells and reduce the tendency of cells and keratin debris to clump together.” You can find our favorite OTC options here.
Stick to noncomedogenic products: To avoid subclinical acne (which is essentially clogged pores), you’ll want to, duh, avoid pore-clogging ingredients. Although, there is no set definition for this term, as everyone’s skin responds differently to certain formulas. But if you notice congested skin whenever you use a certain ingredient (coconut butter and beeswax are the most common examples for acne-prone skin), you may want to lay off.
Exfoliate: Again, exfoliating can help keep the pores clear. You can use salicylic acid to penetrate deep into the pores, or you can stick to a gentle AHA (like lactic acid) to slough off excess dead skin. AHAs are also typically more hydrating and best for dry skin, which is more prone to developing milia.
Get them extracted: Let’s be clear: Do not try to extract milia at home. “They aren’t easy to remove and can easily cause damage to your skin,” says Elena Villanueva, D.C., founder of Modern Holistic Health. If you do want to have them removed, visit a derm who can expertly extract the cysts.
Leave them be: If they don’t bother you, it’s best to leave milia alone. “The truth is that you don’t need to treat unless they are a cause for concern,” says board-certified dermatologist Keira Barr, M.D., about treating milia. “They typically resolve on their own over time.”
For rosacea or contact dermatitis.
Grab soothing topicals: To calm the inflammation and tend to skin damage, cut back on any heavy-duty exfoliators and look for soothing, skin-barrier-supporting ingredients. Aloe vera, ceramides, and colloidal oat are especially beloved for angry, irritated skin.
Check your products: While flares occur for a variety of reasons, your topicals can play a big role. Inspect your labels and make sure you’re not slathering on any potential triggering ingredients.
Azelaic acid: Azelaic acid is different from your standard AHAs or BHAs—it’s a dicarboxylic acid, and it’s actually quite helpful for those who experience recurring bouts of rosacea. According to board-certified dermatologist Jessie Cheung, M.D., in rosacea, “neutrophils release proteases that break down collagen and elastin, contributing to swelling and flushing.” However, azelaic acid can inhibit the function of these neutrophils, thus reducing inflammatory symptoms.
Exfoliate: “Regular exfoliation is the mainstay of management of this chronic skin condition,” says Lisa Airan, M.D., an NYC-based dermatologist. You can either select a body wash that contains chemical exfoliators (like salicylic acid or glycolic acid) or opt for a body scrub to manually slough off the dead skin. You don’t want to overdo it, but it can be helpful to slot some exfoliation into your shower routine.
Hydrate: Says Airan, dry skin can only exacerbate KP (that’s why the condition tends to get worse in the wintertime for many). That said, moisturizing your skin is just as important as unclogging the pores themselves; apply a high-quality body lotion after every shower, especially when your skin is still damp to trap in all that precious water.
Avoid tight, irritating fabrics: Since KP tends to crop up on the arms and legs (and butt), many experts believe your clothing can have something to do with the clogged pores, especially if you’re partial to tight workout wear. “My theory is that these areas are the places where your clothing tends to rub back and forth on your skin the most, and it stimulates dysfunctional keratin production in the hair follicles,” Villafranco tells us. We don’t have much data to back it up, but it makes sense that the friction would irritate those clogged pores.
Yes, each condition has its own specific game plan, but there are some important universal tips to keep in mind:
Manage lifestyle factors: Skin care doesn’t stop at topicals. Lifestyle factors like diet and stress management can significantly affect those bumps, whether you’re dealing with rosacea, acne, or even KP: “What I’m beginning to suspect is that [KP] is a low-grade inflammation in the body that’s showing up in the hair follicle,” says holistic dermatologist Alan Dattner, M.D., adding that increasing your intake of certain nutrients and eliminating certain foods that contribute to inflammation may help ease KP symptoms.
Visit a derm: If you don’t know what type of bumps you’re facing, or if they’re painful and aren’t going away, it’s always a good idea to consult a derm to get to the root of the issue.
Getting rid of bumpy skin isn’t a one-and-done process. Bumps can happen for a host of reasons and may require totally different treatments. The bottom line? It’s important to discover which types of bumps you’re dealing with before diving head-first into topicals.
