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October 19, 2021 — 22:11 PM
Makeup is an art form, rife with self-expression and whimsy, but there’s also a bit of science involved. It’s playful, no doubt, but makeup can be methodological, too—in fact, many makeup lovers have their own everyday, I could do this with my eyes closed regimen (well, maybe not eye makeup—precise liner definitely requires a peek into the mirror).
The science isn’t exact by any means, and there isn’t one road to success, but there is one oft-asked (and hotly debated) question that stumps even the most seasoned beauty experts: What goes on first, concealer or foundation? Should you apply your concealer over a layer of foundation, or is it best to spot-conceal before evening out the entire base?
Who better to ask than makeup artists themselves, as they tend to grab for both on the regular, for a variety of stunning beauty looks. Below, the pros weigh in.
When to use foundation first.
Generally, makeup artists recommend starting with foundation, then using concealer as a touch-up. As the name suggests, foundation is, well, the foundation of your makeup routine, the base that creates an even canvas.
“You will use a lot less concealer if you go in with your foundation first because when you apply concealer first, you end up wiping a lot of it away with your foundation application,” says makeup artist Alexandra Compton, product development manager at clean beauty retailer Credo. Then if you reapply the concealer to cover up any blemishes, “your complexion could look cakey and patchy.”
For a seamless application, select your foundation of choice (see here for our picks), dot it on areas you’d like to cover, then blot with a damp beauty sponge to build an even base. “If you prefer a lighter finish, you can mix a pump of your foundation with a pump of your primer to sheer out the coverage and allow some of your skin to peek through,” Compton notes. Or you could swirl in a liquid highlighter to add more glow—the possibilities are endless.
Next, she recommends spot-concealing with a fine-point makeup brush to strategically cover up blemishes. Remember: There is a science to concealing raised bumps, versus discoloration, versus fine lines—so make sure to read up on your best plan of action.
When to use concealer first.
OK, so the pros generally prefer foundation first, but there are some instances when you might want to apply concealer before foundation—namely, if you’re using a color corrector. These products are meant to neutralize discoloration in your skin: Purple can cancel out sallowness, an orangey-peach can warm up cool shadows, and so on. That said, you want to apply them directly on areas that need evening out rather than on top of a layer of foundation (which will simply cover up the tone).
“Foundation or concealer on top of the corrector will conceal,” Compton once told us about the product. “You want to ensure that you don’t have heavy layers of product that run the risk of creasing or separating with wear.” So in this case, you’ll want to apply your color-correcting concealer, then your foundation, then a more neutral concealer to touch up the brightness, if needed.
And while most experts agree that covering up blemishes is most helpful over foundation, under-eye concealer becomes less straightforward. “I think concealer wears better under the eyes when it adheres directly to moisturized skin instead of on foundation that can melt, fade, or move over the course of the day,” notes makeup artist Jenny Patinkin. She still prefers foundation first, but she skips over the under-eye area so she can apply the concealer on bare skin.
For the delicate under-eyes, Compton says the tip of your ring finger is all you need to tap in the concealer. “The warmth of your finger will help the product to melt seamlessly into the skin, helping to prevent creasing throughout wear,” she shares. You can top it off with a setting powder to keep the pigment in place, if you’d like.
What about the rest of your makeup?
Say it with us (again): There are no rules to makeup, and you can apply your products however you please. Find success with a blush under foundation? Sandwich away. Prefer to sweep on concealer only after your mascara is set and dried? Be our guest. Makeup is personal, and according to Compton, the “proper” order also depends on the look you’re trying to achieve.
That caveat being said, here are the experts’ favorite tips:
1. Apply eye makeup first.
Both Compton and Patinkin recommend waiting until your eye makeup is all done (shadow, liner, mascara) before applying complexion products, like foundation and concealer. That way, you can clean up any fallout with makeup remover without messing up your perfectly blended concealer. The concealer can also help cover up the fallout and make your winged liner razor-sharp.
2. After foundation and concealer, go in with contour, blush, and highlighter.
“After applying foundation and concealer, enhance your facial features and structure with contour,” says Compton. You can also pop on a shade of blush to add depth to your complexion and sculpt the face (yes, a strategic blush placement can change the shape of your face).
After blush comes highlighter: “I personally like to do my highlighting last,” Mary Irwin once told us about how to apply a pearly number. “I’ll do the skin—foundation, concealer, blush, bronzer—and then look where I still want to add glow.”
If you’re using cream products, make sure to apply setting or finishing powder as your very last step. “Try not to go in repeatedly with multiple layers of powders and creams as this can cause separation of the product and cause patchiness,” says Compton. But if you’ve reached the end of your makeup routine, a dust of powder can effectively absorb excess oil and leave a slight glow to the skin.
There are plenty of ways to apply your makeup, and there is no exact science to follow. When it comes to foundation and concealer, though, the experts do typically use foundation first. Of course, there are some caveats (color correctors and under-eye concealers, mainly), and you should always stick with the routine that you love. Simple as that.
