I’m all about keeping my complexion flawless, so when I try out a new product—and a scary slew of breakouts pops up in its wake? Well, not ideal. But here’s the tricky part: Those pimples may, in fact, be a sign that the new formula is working. It’s called skin purging. And thanks to social media trends, it’s become a kind-of desirable skincare method that the internet is loving lately. But, truth be told, it’s not as simple as adopting a new skincare habit or reaching for a new formula.
You see, skin purging isn’t for the faint of heart. Dealing with breakouts, dryness, and flaking skin for weeks at a time isn’t exactly desirable. But one thing that is, is the end result: clear, glowing skin. We tapped dermatologists to get the scoop on skin purging, what it is, and how to deal with it as it’s happening. Plus, we’ve got the inside scoop on how to know the difference between skin purging and a breakout. Keep reading to learn more.
According to board-certified dermatologist Anthony Rossi, M.D., skin purging is a pop culture term used to describe how the skin reacts after exposure to new skin care products or an addition or change in certain ingredients. “What happens is the skin might react to certain ingredients like retinol, hydroxyl acids or other exfoliants and become irritated or inflamed,” he says. It’s essentially a process that the skin may experience while adjusting to the increased amount of cellular turnover.
Board-certified dermatologist, Hadley King, M.D. agrees and says skin purging is most commonly seen with retinoids (one of the many things they do in the skin is speeding up the rate of cellular turnover) but it can also happen with exfoliating acids.
It can also affect any skin type. “Skin purging occurs both in people who have acne and in people [who typically don’t],” says board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D.. “It tends to occur to a greater degree if you have acne because there may be more oil and more blockages within the pores to begin with. But it may occur to a lesser degree even in people who do not have acne. If you do not have acne at baseline, there still may be microscopic blockages within the pores allowing for buildup of mild levels of oil.”
What causes skin purging?
While it may sound like a scary process, it’s actually not. In fact, the cause is pretty simple once you understand how cell turnover works. Using certain active ingredients increases the speed of cell turnover and the skin starts shedding dead skin cells at a faster rate.
“As the surface of skin is shed more quickly, our skin is speeding up the growth of new skin cells and pushing everything to the surface,” King says. This includes excess sebum, dead skin cells and all the goop and gunk trapped under the outer layer of skin. And unfortunately, this is the precursor to new healthy skin cells cycling to the surface. So don’t fret if it gets worse before it gets better. Just remember healthy, glowing skin is on the horizon.
How to know if it’s skin purging or a breakout?
King says the effect of skin purging can vary from person to person and doesn’t look the same on every complexion. And such is the case of acne, too. So making a distinction between them is—well—challenging, nor an exact science. But here are some clues to help you figure it out.
Both skin purging and breakouts can range from a mix of blackheads, whiteheads, papules and pustules or even dry, peeling skin, too. So while it’s always beneficial to identify the type of acne to help you treat it, it may not offer too many insights into the breakout versus purging question.
So the key to differentiating between skin purging and a breakout usually comes down to if you’ve made changes in your skincare routine. “If this is happening during a time of change in products or ingredients, it’s more likely to be skin purging,” Rossi says. But if you haven’t added anything new into your routine, those pimples may just be a breakout.
But it’s not just if you’re starting a new formula—pay attention to the type and ingredients. If you’re not using a new product that’s a retinoid, AHA, BHA, enzyme, or peel, it’s likely not purging and instead a reaction or sensitivity. For example, if you added a new brightening serum that is a blend of botanicals and essential oils, it likely isn’t purging—and instead a reaction to a new ingredient your skin may take issue with.
You should also be mindful of how long this lasts—within the first two to six weeks of starting a new product likely means its purging. “Once the purging is done, the skin should remain clear,” Zeichner assures. Anything after that is just a plain old breakout.
Where the breakouts are happening may also offer some indications. If your breakouts happen in areas that you typically experience clogged pores or increased oil production, it’s likely those zones purging their sebum and debris. For example, if you have a shiny T-zone, you’ll likely see your skin purge around there—as it’s more likely your pores have congestion in that area. However, if your breakouts are in a brand new spot (like around the hairline) it may be a reaction to a new product (like a new conditioner or hair spray).
OK, so is skin purging actually worth it?
The jury is still out on this one, but Rossi says it’s not his method of choice. “I rather not irritate the skin and allow it to adjust to the products, especially if someone has sensitive skin,” he says. Especially as skin care methods move to more gentle, simplistic routines—experts have moved away from the idea that you need to irritate the skin in the pursuit of “healing” it.
Other experts say skin purging is worth it, if you can endure the not-so-pretty side of things while they last. Essentially, the purge is proving your skincare ingredients to be effective, but it definitely comes at a cost—a very visible cost.
Ultimately if you want to stick with a new ingredient that is causing you to purge—or try one of those potent formulas to begin with—is up to you. People with sensitive or inflamed skin may want to avoid it (and rather do something like “microdosing” skin), but those with more resilient skin may be able to tolerate it.
King says the skin purging traditionally lasts 4 to 6 weeks. “A full skin cell cycle is about 28 days and that’s a normal amount of time for this process to take,” she says. “If the purge lasts longer than six weeks, consult your dermatologist.” She also notes that opting for more gentle products in other categories of your skincare routine, may help to minimize irritation and soothe the skin. Choose a gentle cleanser, a rich hydrator, and never double up on exfoliators during this time.
How do I take care of skin purging?
For starters, patience is the key to success. There’s really no remedy that will fix skin purging besides waiting until it passes. That’s the hard truth.
But if you need a quick relief, reach for a calming and non-clogging moisturizer. It may not exactly be the “cure” to skin purging, but it certainly will help. “A good moisturizer helps to repair the barrier of the skin and gives the skin internal hydration,” Rossi says. Not to mention, it can help reduce redness, dryness, flaking, and even help to soothe irritation.
A few calming, barrier-supporting ingredients to look for on your ingredient list. There are others, but these tend to be the most popular.
Oat oil or extract. Oats have long been a favorite ingredient for sensitive or inflamed skin—it’s often recommended for those with skin conditions like eczema or rosacea. That’s because it’s rich in linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid that helps regulate the functioning of the skin barrier. It’s also rich in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory components like beta glucans and tocopherols.
Aloe vera. A classic soothing botanical, aloe vera is ideal for those with acne-prone and irritated skin as it has anti-inflammatory properties, helps balance oil production, hydrates the epidermis, and won’t clog pores. It’s even brightening, which may help with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Jojoba oil. For those who love oils, opt for jojoba oil. It’s very lightweight, is similar to your natural sebum, and contains things like vitamin E, vitamin B complex, copper, and zinc—which are all great for tending to breakouts.
It’s also important to listen to your skin. Rossi says allowing time for your skin to heal is a must. So if you feel like it’s a bit too much for your skin to take, it’s OK to take a break from those active ingredients. And when in doubt, consider reaching out to your local dermatologist to avoid any missteps.
Skin purging isn’t exactly pretty, but can have good benefits. It typically lasts about a month, but new, glowing and rejuvenated skin should be the end goal. Prepare to be patient and to give your skin an extra boost of TLC, but overall, it’s a not-so-beautiful step to getting flawless skin.
